I have arrived in Santiago de Compostela ...

 

With very mixed emotions, this morning at approximately 1025am (Spain time) I arrived in front of the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. My walking jouney has ended but the results of the life jouney will hopefully continue on. Thank you to my sister Theresa and my nephew Michael who got up before 4am (Ontario time) to watch my arrival on the webcams around the Cathedral. Theresa and I were in contact by text messages as I walked Into the city. They were able to capture still shots from the webcams (Michael had one going on his computer and Theresa had another one on her computer). I'm not sure if they will turn out but I knew I was there!
As well thank you to everyone who followed my Blog and especially to those who left messages, as they really helped on those days when I had my doubts as to what I was doing
More later!

Now in Arqua with 2 days to go...

Greetings all!
I didn't post yesterday because the walk from Portomarin to Palas de Rei wasn't that inspiring! I think the most exciting thing of the day was the trek across this old richety bridge first thing in the morning. It was metal and all but the actual walking surface was kinda of a sheet metal and with every step you took, you never knew which way it was going to shift. Sometimes the front would raise up. Other times the side or back would move. Of course, the bridge is suspended about 50m over a valley that was once the town until progress called a hydro electric dam down steam was built. It was either low tide or the dam was open but there was very little water. This was great for seeing some if the old walls but not so great if you took a tumble as there was barely a trickle if water. After the bridge, the day started with a steep climb. I guess they figured if the bridge didn't wake you up the climb sure would. The rest of the 24km day was uneventful.
The town of Palas de Rei is built on the side of a hill. Luckily for the next morning, the exit route was downhill for a change.
Today's walk was a realitively uneventful 30km trek. I think the highlight was my stop for breakfast in some small hamlet along the way. This area (Arqua) is known all through Europe for their cheese. It's called tetilla (translated "nipple"). Well I had some in my Bocadillos "tortillos Francesca" which is a fancy name for an omlette with something in it (today was ham and nipple cheese) on some sort of crusty bread or baguette. It was one if the best cheeses I have ever had. Very creamy and rich. I want to try it in it's own which should be even better. Speaking of food, last night dinner I tried one of the local Galician specialties called Pulpo a la Gallega. Translated, steamed Octopus, sliced up and sprinkled with Spanish paprika. If you were wondering, yes...it still had those little suction cups on the tentacles. It is a local specialty so I had to try it. Honestly, it wasn't that bad. I wouldn't have it every day but I may try it again.
Today was the last of the up the hill...down the hill apparently. Walking into Arqua was pretty. I could see the town early enough, it just happened to be on the top of another hill, across a very deep valley. So, down I went and then up I went. It sounds so simple but it took over an hour to navigate it.
The "happy" birds I was talking about the other day sound an awful lot like a robin but with more calls. It is about a quarter of the size but has a similar orangey breast. Distant cousins maybe.
We are expecting rain for the next several days so I guess my walk into Santiago will be a wet one!
Adios for now...

The fog has lifted in Portomarin...

If you read yesterday's post, you may remember me talking about the cottomball like "mist" that I saw coming around the mountain. Well today, I walked in that mist and it felt as dense as it looked yesterday from the mountainside. Here are a couple of examples of just how dense this stuff was. It was that dense that at one point, I looked down at my t-shirt and wondered where all the lint balls had come from. I ran my finger along the area and it turns out it was condensation from the mist had actually formed on the front of my shirt. The other example of how dense the mist was is how many spider webs there were. Normally, you never see spiderwebs (in this quantity) but this morning, I could see every spiderweb along the path. It one area, they had planted a field of what looked like scotch pines (the Spanish version). These trees were so filled with spiderwebs which were filled with condensation from the mist, they actually looked like Christmas tree decorations. The only thing missing were a strand of twinkling lights. The downside of this much mist is that it was difficult to take many pictures.
The one picture I did get was the one of the marker indicating I was 100kms from Santiago de Compostela. In the Galician region that I am now in, they have installed these cement pillars every 0.5kms to tell you how far you are from Santiago. At this point, depending on which book or marker you read/look at, I am 90-95kms from the final destination. I am still on track to arrive in 4 days.
If anyone is interested, I should be arriving in the square in front of the Cathedral in Santiago de Compesttla at around 10am (local time). That would make it around 4am Ontario time. The reason I mention this is that thte is a website that actually hosts several webcams that cover the square. Just a thought?!
Adios for now...

In Sarria...

I didn't mention the fun part about yesterday (and as it turns out, today too). For a good portion of this part of the Camino, you walk along trails that are almost completely enclosed with mature Chestnut and Oak trees. It's beautiful walking along these types of paths but they can be a bit on the tricky side too. It's fall here in Spain and if you haven't guessed it yet, the chestnuts and acorns are ripe. What this has meant, especially yesterday and today, aside from doing the cow pattie dance, you are often being bombarded from above by either type of nut and often both at the same time. It was kind of fun (OK you have to entertain yourself on some stretches of the trail), trying to avoid getting knocked on the head.
Today's walk was quite enjoyable. The birds seemed especially loud and plentiful. I had been hearing a couple of birds for a while now and today I actually got to see them (even pics of one if them). The one I got the picture of has an ecxepionally happy sound.
My guide book said that after a steep climb out of Triacastela, you would be able you catch glimpses of the Galician rolling hills and lush valleys below as well as Sarria in the distance. That wasn't the view I saw today. The mist in the valley was as white as a cotton ball and as dense looking. It was amazing to see because you could see the tops of the mountains all around but then they just ended and there was this white blanket of mist covering the entire valley. The path I was following wound around and down the mountain. Eventually, I could catch glimpses of the land below. At one point there was a break in the mist part way down. There was a farm perched on the side of a hill and the mist was all around but there was a break in it just around the house. It was really cool looking, I hope the pictures turn out. Of course, eventually, I too was surrounded by the mist. One minute I could see the clear sky above and the next, it appeared to be a cloudy day. I didn't actually see the sun again until several hours after I arrived in Sarria and the mist had burned off.
Sarria itself is OK. It's large town that has a old section and a newer section. It appeared to me that the town planners made no effort to blend the new with the old which, at least in my opinion, is such a shame...especially to see such an unattractive contrast.
Adios for now...

Down the hill to Triacastela...

Well today was another beautiful day in Spain. With the exceptions of a few steep climbs (nothing like yesterday though), today's venture was pretty much downhill. Again today, I still prefer the down part over the up part. I know some people have knee problems but I don't and going down doesn't take my breath away. For the most part, I walked almost entirely alone. Again today, the scenery was breathtaking. One might think I would get bored with another view of a valley or of a mountainside as I walk past but that hasn't happemed yet and I don't expect it to. At times today, all I could hear was the sound of the wind whistling through the heather alongside the track, the birds singing and the sound of my own boots crunching on the gravel path. To add to the delight of another sunny day, there was a great breeze which made the walk so much more pleasant.
Coming into Triacastela, I had to share the path with a herd of cattle being moved from one pasture to another by the farmer. Of course there was the mandatory dog (a huge German shepherd who kept getting distracted by one smell or another and had to then run to catch up to the herd) helping to keep the herd on the straight and narrow. For me, aside from the dust the beasts stiired up, there was the incessant smell of the cow patties. Of course along with smell came the "cow pattie shuffle". It seems like doing this shuffle has become a constant on this journey. Don't get me wrong, it's not just cow patties, there is also sheep droppings that one needs to step around too. I wouldn't want to be accused of picking on cows. As for the one smell that will forever remind me of Spain, it will be the smell of a barnyard. It's sad but true. The smell can come at anytime, anyplace...without the warning of actually being near a barnyard. I have to say that today was particularly bad which is probably why it is so fresh in my mind. As bad as it was sometimes (very bad), it didn't deter this from being one of the best walk days I think so far.
In only 6 days, I will be walking into Santiago de Compostella. I have mixed feelings about it. I will miss the excitement of watching the different landscapes unfold in front of me each day, and sometimes at every corner. What I won't miss is not having different clothes to wear each day. There is something to be said to putting on fresh laundered clothes. Washing them out in the bathroom sink, hoping they will dry for the next day is not the same thing as clothes that gave been washed and dried in a machine.
Adios for today.

I made it to O'Cebreiro...

Well I made it to the top of the hill er mountain!
It was a delightful walk overall. The first 20kms were pretty flat and even though it was beside a road some if the time, it was pretty nice. The road used to be a busy highway but they built a new multi lane one which has taken most of the traffic. I went through some pretty quaint llittle towns all the while there were really big hills everywhere I looked. I kept trying to figure out which one I had to climb but never did untili I had to. The last 8 kms were a pretty steep climb and also pretty. We went from about 500m above sea level to almost 1400m. That may not seem like much but when you are walking it, it sure is.
The hamlet (I don't know any other way to describe it since the population is listed as 50) is a beautiful little place. The roofs on most of the houses are made of what they call broom...and it does look like the material in a straw broom. The views in every direction is truely breathtaking. Since I am now in Galicia, the shops (2) are playing bagpipe music and the symbols are all Celtic for the most part. I guess I will be in this area from now until I arrive in Santiago (7 days from today)! I hope the weather holds out. It is normally quite foggy here but I lucked in as today is sunny and warm. It isn't perfectly clear but it isn't hurting the view! The was the last major climb on my Camino. There are still some climbs but not like today.
Tomorrow, I get to start climbing down the mountain. Others prefer the climb but I prefer the decent (when I know I don't have to climb back up)!
Adios for now!

Now in Villafranca des Beirzo

First, let me apologize for my spelling. The Internet is not as readily available as I had hoped so I have to post using my phone. On top of that, the spellcheck function does not work on the phone. I will try harder to catch the typos but I hope you are getting the drift.
yesterday, I walked from Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga which was a relatively shirt walk compared to some of the others. Astorga is a beautiful small city/big town. It's amazing to walking through these towns on the weekend vs a weekday. The weekend, everyone is out socializing whereas on weekdays, you can walk through some towns and quite literally not see a soul.
I have now left the Meseta and am back in the more mountianous area. Tomorrow, the walk from here to O'Cebrerio is going to be a challenge. I haven't done this high a climb since the first day and I am having not so pretty flashbacks to that climb from St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles. It ain't going to be pretty but I am hoping I am in a bit better/different shape now. It is also about a 28km day. I am actually staying on top of the mountain tomorrow night which I am looking forward to so the next day will be the climb down which is painful for a completely different set of muscles.
Adios for now.

20 days of this journey are now complete...

Greetings from Hospital de Orbigo. And for those of you who are paniced that I am writing this entry from a hospital, relax It's just the name if the town I walked to today. By most accounts, it was a 36km hike from Leon to here today. I am saying "by most accounts" because it depends on which book you look in as to the distance. Of course I am going with the highest one. It would make it the longest walking day so far.
The actual walk today wasn't all that exciting as far as anything goes. There was a nicer route to take but it was 7kms longer so I ddecided to take the shorter (did I mention 36km?) route. The down side of it was that it was mostly on a path beside a very busy highway. I don't think I have ever seen such a busy 2 lane highway ever. Picture highway 7, between Carelton Place, during rush hour, in both directions, ALL DAY! I guess because I was so close to the road I didn't see any birds of prey today. The best I could see were a couple of small lizards scrambling into the underbrush as I walked by. In fact I haven't seem any mammals at all (except for cats and dogs). I thought I might have seen some deer or something especially since we are out walking well before the sun comes up. Maybe down the road...I still have 11 days to walk after all.
Today, for the most part, I walked ahead if the group of people I have been walking with over that past 20 days. The numbers seem to drop off more and more each day. Some people are only doing part of the Camino and have gone home already, some have limited time so have had to jump way ahead and others have taken rest days here and there. I heard today that a guy who stayed at the same B & B as I did, way back in St Jean Pied de Port has already reached Santiago de Compestela. I remember him saying at breakfast that morning that he had real limited time so he would be busing part of his Camino. As far as I know, there are only 2 others that are on this town tonight. The rest are 1 or 2 days behind me now. Perhaps we will regroup at some point.
BTW, the Stained glass in the Cathedral in Leon yesterday was stunning. Unfortunately and for no apparent reason, picture taking was not permitted. They even had 2 security guards walking the floor to control it. Any other church I have been into along the way has permitted pictures, you just couldn't use a flash.
I think that it's fir Noe. Not sure where I am going tomorrow... Still need to figure that one out.

Hola from Leon Spain...

I have to say it is pretty strange to be in a large city (by comparison to where I have been) again. It is so loud and there are so many people!
Todays walk wasn't all that pleasant. I think it is one of the worst days because most of it was spent walking beside a very busy highway. The past while has been walks beside minor roads but today it was beside a very busy road even though it was only 7am. Walking n the rain and mud was better than that traffic.
Leon seems like a nice small city. I haven't been in the Cathedral yet but I decided to stay here because I wanted to see the Cathedral at night. Apparently, the stained glass in this place is amazing. My hotel is spitting distance from the cathedral so I plan to see it after dark.
I have absolutely no idea where I am going tomorrow. Leon was an unplanned (last minute that is) stop so my roughly planned itinerary needs to be re-worked but that's for later.
Last night in Mansilla de las Musala, I had a great dinner in the hotel I was staying in. The restaurant was only open to the guests (in the 4 rooms) that were staying in the hotel. The food was good but I think the ambiance was what made the meal. One of the walls in the dining room was over 300 years old. Plus the tapestries were all hand made by the owners wife and they were beautiful. I had actually asked him where I could get one earlier in the day and that's when he explained that his wife had sewn them by hand...apparently, according to hoim, the winters are very long and she gets bored.
Adios!

Another beautiful sunny day in Spain..

Yes folks, it is another beautiful sunny day here in Spain. The walk today from El Burgo Ramero to Mansilla de las Mulas (19km) was relatively uneventful. The terrain was actually finally flat the way I had picured the Meseta to be.
For the most part, the Spanish people have been friendly and welcoming. For some reason though, the people here in Mansilla de las Mulas appear to be indifferent and just rude towards the pilgrims. At first I thought it was just me. I actually made a comment to Terri about the the lady In the grocery store seemed to completely ignore the pilgrims in the store and pretty much only talk to the local people that came in. I was just making the comment in passing and we kind of laughed it off. We decided to get a bite to eat for lunch and the 2 young ladies were downright rude to us. It was't just us. There was another pilgrim that asked the bar person a question and she was completely ignored. Both of them just continued to talk to the locals in the bar and serve them. Don't get me wrong, we did get served...eventually and without even any eye contact or anything. These were just 2 of the 4 instances that I personally experienced within a short timeframe of rude behaviour. This town for me will be most remembered for it's undisguised bad attitude towards pilgrims.
Oh well tomorrow is another day and another town so hopefully it will be back the more pleasant side of Spain and it's warm people.
Adios.
A footnote...after posting the above about the people of Mansilla de las Mulas, I came downstairs from my room and the owner of the small, beautiful hotel where I am staying approached me with a huge smile, welcomed me, gave me a map of the town and answered many if my questions. He has restored my faith in the Spanish people once again!

A great day for a walk in the country...

Today was a great day! It was a shorter walk day (only 17kms). The sun was shinning bright and there was enough of a breeze to keep it really comfortable for walking.
I walked completely on my own today which I am enjoying more and more. It is great to walk wlith someone or a small group fior a short time but I tend to get too distracted from my surroundings by the conversation. I have found that leaving before daylight with someone else or a group is much easier to navigate through an often difficult, poorly marked, and dark route out if town. There has been construction in some areas that makes it almost impossible to see the markers (if there even are any temporary ones) through these construction areas. However, once daylight comes, I have mostly preferred to walk on my own. Even duting daylight , it can still be a challenge to find the markers which is actually why I like walking on my own. It is much more of an accomplishment to have navigated yourself through the Camino marker maze.
I am in El Burgo Rancero having walked from Sahagun. Tomorrow it is on to Mansilla de las Mulas. I only have a few more days left on the Meseta so I want to enjoy the flatter terrain as long as I can.
Adios for now!

Half way point...already...

I find it very hard to believe that I have reached the halfway point of my journey both in days and distance travelled. It has gone by so fast!
The walk from Fromista to Carrion de Los Condes was short (19km) and not all that memorable. It was mostly on a path right beside the highway.
Today is a quick jump ahead day due to technical difficulties with accomodations. The next 2 days will be shorter days but then I will be back on track.
I am still working on the Spanish. I seem to understand a bit miore each day. Making a reservation is still a bit of a challenge if they don't speak even a little English but I usually get by.
Thanks for everyone's concern about my cold. It is much better than it was the first few days. As for the other aches and pains, another pilgrim told me about an ibprofen gel that you rubbed on the sore area. All I can say is WOW! I got me some of that gel and it works great! Thanks for the advice Charlie!!
And Rose, Yogi is so right, unfortunatly on the Camino, that other place could mean lotsa extra miles you have to re-walk...not a good thing if you are already doing 30km that day!
Adios for now!

Oh what a feeling...walking on the Camino....

Wasn't sure which song was more appropriate but I am "back on the road again"!
I walked from Burgos (after my rest) to Hontanas yesterday which turned out to be 32kms. The day was wet to say the least. For the first 4 hours, it was pretty much a steady downpour. The sun came out eventually. Unfortunately, it didn't affect the temperature much. The rest of the hike was spent slogging through the mud. Stayed on the hamlet of Hontanos...population of 70! It was a nice small place...not even 1 store so there were no distractions.
Today I walked from Hontanas to Fromista which totalled 36km. Needless to say it was a long day so I am celebrating with a very large beer.
The terrain has become increasingly flatter as I am now on the Mesata which is the equivelant of our prairies.
Thanks to everyone for their comments and support!
The cold has settled down quite a bit. It's in my chest a bit but nothing to stop me anymore I hope!

Trying to embrace the detours...

I'm not sure anyone will understand really why, but I had to make a very difficult decision yesterday. The day before yesterday I felt a strange tickle in the back of my throat. I ignored it hoping if I did, nothing would come of it. No such luck. By the time I went to bed I knew I was coming down with a cold. I coughed and hacked most of the night and by morning I had a decision to make. Normally the decision would be easy... it easy. I have been walking with, having meals with and getting to know a great buch of people. The thought of not continuing on with them was very unsettling. I had a foot that was bothering me, combined with the fact that it was raining, I decided I would take the bus ahead 2 days in my scedule so I could get some rest and try and get a handle on the cold. So within an hour and at a cost of 2.85euros, I took the bus to Burgos where I got some vitamin c and some rest. As I was driving on the bus, I actually saw some of the group that I travel with. That made me even sadder and feeling just a bit guilty. Anyhow some of the gang has caught up and I plan to continue my walk tomorrow.
Adios from a cool and right now rainy Spain!

Day 10 and have arrived safely in Belardo, Spain...

Finally found some internet.
I arrived safely in Belardo, Spain today. The past 2 days have been shorter walking days, yesterday was about 21km and today was 23km. Actualy today was about 25 as we got lost and had to backtrack. "The Way" wasn't marked very well at all and since we left at 630am and it was still dark, we ended up taking a wrong turn. It wasn´t as bad for us as some other of our travellers walked much further. They left 45 minutes before us and ended up at the first "cafe con leche" (coffee with steamed milk) stop about 10 minutes after us. When I say us, it was just the bunch of people that I was walking around today. There were several people leaving from Santo Domingo de la Calzada the same time as I was which is typically what happens. We follow or lead each other most of the day and then see each other most of the time in the destination. There seems to be a rather large group of us that moves to the same town each day.
The walking is becoming easier, partially becuase the landscape is become less hilly but also because I guess I am getting in better shape. I know that my lung capacity is increasing based on the long steep climb we did yesterday and I didn´t even have to stop part way up. It was a great accomplishment to say the least.
These days I am enjoying the walk more for several reasons. One being that I now call ahead and get accomodations in my next stop. Two being that I am becoming more accustomed to the routine and three I guess being that the weather has cooled off considerably. It was downright cool yesterday and today. I had to breakdown and buy a fleece jacked yesterday. I knew I would have to but I was hoping to get a few more days without having to carry the jacket.
We left wine country today and I kind of miss those vineyards. Today there were a lot of fields of sunflowers. Unfortunately, I am a couple of weeks late to get the full impact of them as they are now pretty much dried out. They would have been stunning back in full bloom.
Anyhow, gotta go do laundry...by hand...again! Not as bad as it could be since I found a laundromat yesterday and washed everything I had except what I was wearing. It was a very good thing to smell freshed laundered clothes again and to know they were really clean for a change.
Adios!

Hiked 30km today...

Well day 8 is over. I covered 30kms today walking from Logrono to Najera. The walk is becoming much easier. Today the terrain was mostly vineyards as I am in the heart of wine country. I actually tasted the grapes today and they are very sweet...well the purple ones were but the green ones were still a big sour. I am starting to get into a routine as far as how the day goes. This morning I left about 630am so it´s up at 530am and on a day like today, walk until about 2pm. After I get checked in to where I am staying, I have to wash out the clothes I have worn that day, have a very quick shower and then head to some sort of bar to wash the dust out of my throat with a large beer. Since they don´t start serving dinner here until 8-830pm, I usually have to have a snack to tide me over. I seem to be hungry all of the time. Yesterday, we actually decided to buy some stuff for lunch today and so part way through the walk, we stopped and made a really nice snack.
Anyhow, tomorrow is a shorter day...only 21km
Adios

Have arrived safely in Logrono...

Today was a very long walk but I am happy to say I made it. We walked about 27-29km (depending on which book you look in). I actually started walking this morning at 615am...well before daylight. I was determined to start early as it seems that most of the pilgrims start that early, especially if they are staying in an albergue. Started out walking with the lady from Ottawa and a guy from Brazil. We caught up with the lady from Victoria and eventually one from Ireland. This afternoon we all seemed to hopscotch back and forth and I spent most of the afternoon walking with the Ottawa lady and a guy from Germany. It is amazing seeing the different terrain unfolding ahead. Right now, I am in the heart of wine country (Rioja region). The grapes are just coming into season and but unfortunately, the wine festivals don´t start for another couple of weeks. As well, there are plenty of almond and olive groves.
Anyhow, I am off to bed as tomorrow it is a 30km day. I hope I make it but at least I have accomodations secured in the next place.
Adios!

Day 6 is in the books...

Greetings from Los Arcos, Spain!
My apologies for not keeping this more up-to-date. It has been more of a challenge to actually get internet, let alone wi-fi and then there's the challenge of the Spanish keyboard. On top of that, usually by the end of the day, I am just too tired to even make an entry. I am certainly not complaining, just explaining.
Just an brief description of day 2 and 3 and 4 and 5 and OK, 6...same as day 1. Hills! Big ones although not as big as the first day! Each day the hills seem to get smaller and for those big ones, much easier to get over. One thing I have discovered is that if you go up a hill, you always end up going down it and then up another one and the pattern continues. I was walking with a lady from Victoria yesterday and we were laughing about this. It seems strange but at by the time we had this conversation yesterday, we were both beyond exhausted both from the heat and the walk and it just struck both of us as particularly funny.
Anyhow, the walk is going well. I am meeting lots of people. It seems that the entire group of people walk the same route. We hop scotch each other during the day (they will stop and I will pass and vice versa) and end up in the same town each night. Unfortunately, some of them either have to quite early or take a bus in order to keep on track with how much of the Camino they have time for. I am very fortunate that I have the time off from life (work, home, etc.) to do the entire Camimo. I have to admit that some days, when the alarm goes off in the morning, it is all I can do to not pick up the phone and ask to stay in the same spot another night or to find out where the bus station is so I can just jump on a bus to the next town. I know I will probably have to do this at some point as I can feel the old body building up to a "rest day" but I will cross that bridge when I get to it.
Hopefully more later but right now, I have a town to discover. I may even get a chance to upload some very unedited pictures later on my Picassa site which the link is to the right of the page.
Just a reminder you can leave a comment at the bottom of each post if you want! It would be great to hear from you...
Adios!

Hola from Spain...

Reporting in from Pamplona...third day in and tired as hell...how´s that for the honest truth!!!
So, the first day, up over the Pyrenees...way up over the Pyrenees...did I mention just how high it got...1500m is a pretty good number. It was gruelling and frustrating and hot and well, pretty much just plain hell. I´m painting a grime picture but that´s how it was physically. The scenery was breath taking. The birds of prey were circling (not for me this time) and one got so close I could practically see him blink. They were massive birds. I haven´t checked the pictures yet but I hope some turned out. The mountains and the veiws were breathtaking (or was that the exertion from the climb and altitude combined?).
I ended staying in the albergue in Roncesvalles. Not a lot of sleep that night.
Anyhow, I just wanted to post to say I am alive and have made it 3 days. I will post more later but want to get dinner now.
Adios!

Ah Paris...

Arrived in Paris to torrential downpours! The flight over was great ... Probably the shortest feeling flight over I have ever had. Lucky for me, the skies have cleared and ut has turned into a sunny but kinda cold day! I went to get ny train ticket to St Jean Pied de Port tomorrow and the train I wanted was actually sold out in 1st class so they wouldn't let me use my Eurail pass. I had to buy a second class ticket for €83. Gotta roll with the punches I guess! I am supposed to be doing that 800kms afterall!
More later.. Off to find food. Getting tired as only had about 2 hrs sleep since I left Toronto!!!
BTW...if you are reading this Paula, I have been thinking of you all day. Every where I look it seems, there is a branch of BNP Paribas!

Departure day...all packed!

It's hard to believe that 6 months and 17 days ago I started this blog to try and explain to my boss that I wanted to take on this adventure and why. And now it's here...departure day. I am all packed...probably still taking too much stuff. It's amazing how many "little things" get added to the backpack at the last minute. Of course, all these little things still weigh something and it all adds up. I am hoping that somehow between Toronto and St Jean Pied de Port my backpack somehow manages to weigh less.
Thanks to everyone who followed this blog so far. I hope the next 45 days are a bit more interesting. I will update it as often as I can. As well, I will be posting a link to the right for my Picassa page that I hope to be able to upload pictures as I go.
Stay tuned as this adventure begins!

my last night before the adventure begins...

Well, this is my last night in the comfort of my own home before I jet off for parts unknown and sights unseen! Friends have asked how I am feeling but the truth is, it changes by minute. One minute it's shear dread and the next is shear excitement. I think once I actually get on the plane tomorrow, I will settle down.
I have trained as much as I was meant to have and I have researched as much as I was meant to have so I am convinced I am as prepared as I can be AND I am still sure I am doing the right thing by embarking on this adventure.
Tomorrow!

5 days to go and a new backpack!

I got a bit of a shock earlier this past week. I went for a walk with the pack fully loaded with what I had planned to take and realized that there was no way I could do this trip if I didn't do something about the backpack . It was so uncomfortable that after 4kms, I had to turn around and come home. I had taken the pack out many times but never as full as this time. The backpack itself is just too big volume wise and as a result, moved around too much while I walked. So I went out to my favourite store (Mountain Equipment Coop) and spent about an hour and a half trying on backpacks. They were great there. They not only helped me find the right backpack, they also showed me how to pack it correctly.
I took the new backpack out on Thursday with the same stuff I had in the other one on Monday and the difference was amazing...not even comparable. The only downside is that it is pretty much full so I may have to downsize a bit.
As far as the beginning of this adventure being only 5 days away now, I am feeling amazingly calm about it. In fact, I am actually getting excited about it.
And soon dear readers, you will hopefully get to read about something a bit more exciting than my decision to buy a new backpack on this blog!

I found something today that I wanted to share...

I was reading my usual Camino de Santiago de Compostela forum today when I came across a YouTube link that someone had added for the rest of us followers to read. It struck me as something I had to share with the folks that are following my blog. Here's the link... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDOTJHbwRj4 . The reason I am recommending this short video is that after you watch it, you may have a better idea of why I am doing this pilgrimage. It actually does a better job of answering the "why" question than I have ever been able to. As well, if you want to get an advance preview of some of the things I will probably be seeing, check out some of the other YouTube videos that are on the same YouTube page after you have watched this one. Enjoy!
And yes, it's only 16 days to go!

Wow, only 1 month to go...

It is hard to believe that it I leave for Europe 1 month from today. I am actually having trouble typing the word "month". Each time I try, my fingers automatically add an "s" to the end of it but no, it's only 1 month to go...crap, did it again!

The past couple of days have been kinda strange, especially yesterday. I actually had a few panic attacks. I don't think it was about any concern regarding the physical side of the trip that was bothering me but more the part about being away, out of my comfort zone for 45 days...alone. Chances are I won't be alone for very long as I already know from the Camino forum I follow that there are several people starting the same day/same place as me. I guess it's mostly about being out of my comfort zone...strange country, strange language, strange food and aside from a few yellow arrows or shells, not having a clue where the hell I am going!

No doubt there will be a few more (OK, probably several more) moments of doubt over the next month...hey, I finally typed it without the "s"....guess that's progress eh!

6 Weeks...but who's counting...??

OK, so obviously I'm counting thanks to the little counter widgety thing on the right of your screen.

Wow, the time is really flying by. All of the travel stuff is ready and in place for the trip as in, plane ticket, rail pass, hotel for first couple of nights all booked and paid for. All of the equipment is in place as well, except for one item that a friend is actually making for me (thanks Mary). So, nothing left to do except sit back and wait. Oh ya, and train of course. I have introduced the cycling and working out at the gym to the training regiment. I think the hardest part about the training is trying to decide what to do which day. Sometimes the weather dictates the schedule for that one. No sense getting wet before I have to.

Minor equipment failure a couple of weeks ago. I went to put on the hiking boots (that I just got in March) and discovered they were coming apart. They were a name brand boot and were relatively expensive. Luckily I had bought them at Mountain Equipment Coop here in Toronto so when I went back to the store with them, I was given 3 options...refund/repair/exchange. Since I didn't want to start looking for different kind of boot and the repair was going to take 1-3 weeks, I opted to exchange the boots for a new pair. I went with the same boot (yup, could be a mistake) because they were really comfortable. The breakin period is pretty much non existent so it's now like I have been wearing them forever. Other than that, things are going pretty smooth.

More later as the departure date screams towards me!

OMG...3 months from today!!!

I cannot believe that 3 months from today I will be boarding a plane for Paris to start my Camino! I know that for some, 3 months seems like a long way off but for me, it is speeding up like tomorrow. It was back in mid February when I created this blog and started the process to prepare for walking the Camino de Santiago. These pass almost 4 months just have flown by.

People have been asking me if I am getting excited about going. The truth is, how I feel changes almost by the minute. One minute I will be excited and wish it was starting tomorrow and the next minute I am filled with shear terror as in...WTF am I doing?! Who in their right mind sets out to walk 800kms across a strange land, immersed in a strange language...intentionally?!? I have to say though, this particular emotion passes so quickly and whats left is simply the answer...ME! I guess I don't want to get too excited about going yet because I don't want to wish any of the summer gone.

Training is going well. I try and do at least one 20+ km walk and then 3 or 4 other walks of 10-15kms per week. I'm not always successful but I am trying. Hopefully things will kind of slow down for a while now and I can actually get out more. I have also been out walking with the backpack I am taking to Europe. I was only carrying about 60% of the actual weight I hope to be taking on my Camino. It was interesting to experience the difference the bigger backpack made and how different the weight distribution was my body. Definitely felt it on my lower body. I didn't have much of an issue carrying it so I am sure I will get used to the weight distribution and hope to be able to work up to carrying the backpack with the full weight in the next few weeks.

OMG...3 months from today!!!

Big hike today...

Since it was such a beautiful day here in Toronto today, I decided I would attempt a longer walk. My intent when I started out was to do about 5kms more than my longest walk which would have meant 18kms. After I got out on the trail, I decided to just keep walking to Taylor Creek Park. I had no idea how far it was but I wanted a location goal instead of a distance goal. Of course, by the time I got up to Taylor Creek Park, I was still feeling fine. But then reality set it...I still had to walk home! I decided just to take a bit of a break and have a snack. I still hadn't figured how far I had gone. So by the time I got home, I had hit the 22km mark!!! To put it into perspective for those of you back home, it's pretty much like walking from Lanark to Perth and then back as far as Balderson. The next time you are driving 115, think about that! I'm a bit sore tonight but then I always am when I bump up the hike distance. Oh well, good thing I still have about a bit over 4 months to keep training.

Oh ya, I got my new passport today...picture is obscene but it should suffice to get me into France/Spain/Italy/Croatia. One less thing on the list to get done!

Just a quick update...

I can't believe it has been a month since I posted last. Time sure flies! Under 5 months to go!

Not too much new to report. I have been busy training and getting the equipment in that I think I will need. I am up to walking about 13kms at a time now with little problem. That said, the first time I walked that far, I was pretty tired and achy by end. So far, I have pretty much walked on flat surfaces and only carrying my day pack (about 1/3 of the weight of my Camino backpack). I plan to start taking different routes around the city so I can train on a more diverse terrain. I have some day hikes on some trails outside the city planned as well. As long as I am out moving every day, whether it's 5 or 15 km at a time, its fine by me.

As for the equipment, it is slowly coming together. There are certain things like the rain jacket and the clothes that I need now in order to figure out if they will work.

I have got my accomodations in both Paris and St Jean Pied de Port locked down now too. It's a relief to have that part done. The rest of the accomodations are just going to happen as my Camino unfolds.

More later...

The Canadian Company of Pilgrims - Toronto Chapter...

Last Saturday (07Mar09) I had the privilege of attending the Canadian Company of Pilgrims Toronto Chapter's meeting here in Toronto at St James Church Parish. The speakers were inspiring, the other attendees were fun and full of knowledge but I think my most memorable experience of that meeting was just to finally feel like I belonged somewhere. Since I started this quest...journey...adventure, however it gets labelled, while most people are thrilled for me and very supportive, there has always been this sense of "are ya nuts!" or just "why would you want to do this?". No malice, just no full understanding. That all changed when I walked into that basement room of the Parish where the meeting was being held. As it turns out, most everyone there had either done the Camino (I would say 80% of them) or like me, were planning too at some point. They all got it...no "nuts!" and no "whys?", they all understood the draw to do their Camino. Don't get me wrong, there are times I don't know why myself and think am I nuts but the draw to do my Camino never waivers.

3rd permission received...my Camino is a go!!!

I received the good news today from my Oncologist that I was cancer free so my Camino is a go! I have booked my flights and I am leaving for Paris on 03 September 2009 and will be returning on 18 October 2009. I am planning on spending a couple of days in Paris and then heading off to St Jean Pied de Port for an overnight and then off on the Camino. After my Camino, I will probably have 10 days (give or take) to travel around Spain or back to France or both! I built this extra time in to this adventure so that if I wanted or needed to spend more time doing my Camino, I wouldn't feel rushed. At this time, while the beginning of the adventure is relatively firm, the end will be how the wind blows me I guess. More later as it unfolds.

the route...

Just a quick update. Some people have been asking about the route I will be taking so I have added a map to give a rough idea of my trek from France and northern Spain.

I will be starting my Camino in St Jean Pied de Port (on the France/Spain border) and officially be finishing it in Santiago de Compostela (left side of map). I am planning on continuing on to the town of Finisterre which has also been known as the End of the World back in the day...way back!

The first day I will be walking from St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles. The first real decision will be which route to take...up over the Pyrenees along the route taken by Napoleon's army or down through the valley. Over the mountains is the route I want to take but unfortunately, it is all down to the weather. From all I have read, if it is raining the valley route is the one to take. Fingers crossed for sunshine the first day! More later.

Only 3 days until I hopefully get my 3rd and final permission!!!

3rd permission delayed...

Well, if it weren't for changes in life, it might get a bit boring. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I was to ask for my 3rd and final permission at the end of this week. I got a call today from my Oncologists office and they advised that he had some emergency surgeries to do on Friday (the day of my appointment) and that my appointment was going to have to be re-scheduled until next Friday (06 Mar 09). I remember very clearly the time leading up to my surgery and how grateful I was that he opened up an additional day of surgeries and I was fit in. Someone probably had to have their appointment with him re-scheduled in order to accommodate me and I will be eternally grateful for perhaps even a few days where I wasn't in that pain. I can do nothing more than pay that gratitude forward and wait another week for the 3rd permission. It's all good!

2nd permission accomplished...

Today was a good day but a difficult day too.

The good part of the day was that my boss has given me the green light to do my Camino...2nd permission accomplished! Thank you Tiffany, not just for giving me permission to take the time off work but also for being so very supportive and understanding. These days it is rare to find a boss that is so giving that they would allow one of their employees to take 6 weeks off work without barely blinking an eye! Thank you again Tiffany!

The difficult part of the day was 2 members of my team at work were laid off. I will miss working and laughing with both of you Caroline and Kim! The entire team knew there was a possibility the day was coming where any one of us could be laid off. We all hoped the cutbacks at HRG Worldwide would not affect our team but that was not to happen. I want to wish you both all the best success in the future!

An update on the Camino plans...

The guide book (Walking the Camino de Santiago) and map (Camino de Santiago Map) I had ordered from Pili Pala Press arrived yesterday. I had a chance to peruse them briefly last night and they both look amazing. I think one of the best part of both the map and the guide book is that they are both current. The guide book is the 3rd edition and was published just this year (2009) so it has just been updated. The map is from 2008 so it too is very current. As well, each page of the map is a stage of the journey and it is wired bound so there is no big map to keep opening up...just flip to the page and go! They are both extremely lightweight so they will be taking the trip with me.

On Monday, I decided to talk a walk over to the Tilley Endurables store to check out hats with Randy. Needless to say, it was not the most enjoyable of experiences as I don't do hats well and anyone who knows Randy knows he does not hold back his opinion. But this is a good thing...at least in this case. I value his opinion and he sure shared with either "the look" or "the snort of disapproval". After going through most of the hats and pretty much exhausting the sales clerk, I had given up. I looked around the store a bit more and Randy ended up finding I think the only hat I had not tried on and miraculously, it worked (as best as any hat can work on me). So, I have a hat for the trip too. Thank you Randy for your candour!

So now I have a backpack, a guide book, a map and a hat...I am well on my way!!!!

my Camino history...

This blog was pretty much setup to document my planned pilgrimage to the Camino de Santiago in France and Spain. There are 3 permissions I need before the trip is a go. That would be from my GP, from my boss and from my oncologist. So far, my GP has given his green light. With any luck, the boss will give her green light this week and then the oncologist will hopefully happen next week.

This pilgrimage has been in the making for nearly a decade, I just didn't know it until a few months ago. The lineage for this adventure probably started when I quit smoking almost 10 years ago. That put me on a course to eventually end up in an eight year (ish) relationship.

I think my first brush with the Camino was when one of my best friend's father took several "hiking" trips to Spain (guess his purpose as it turns out). He kept a blog and sent emails detailing his adventures like getting lost because he had missed the directional "shell". I had no idea at the time that he was doing the Camino.

My partner at the time (Randy) was/is an avid reader. He suggested I read a book he had just finished called My Camino. The author was a former co-worker of his named Sue Kenney. It was one of those books I could not put down that summer and have actually read it again since.

Next came the cancer and successful treatment at Princess Margaret Hospital in Toronto. As many may know they have a lottery called (this year) The Princess Margaret Home Lottery for Cancer Research and in part due to my gratitude for my treatment and wanting to pay it forward, I have bought a ticket for each of the subsequent lotteries. The only prize I have ever won was to date has been a backpack...the type you use for the long hikes. Of course, I have tried to get rid of it over the years but for one reason or another, I have unwittingly hung onto it.

Then while out cycling one day, Randy saw Sue on the street as we were passing and we stopped and chatted for a while. Turns out she has returned to the Camino and written another book called Confessions of a Pilgrim.

Since meeting Sue that day, I have been thinking about whether I could actually do the pilgrimage. Side effects of the cancer treatment caused a radical surgery a few years back. This results from the surgery (although known going in) have caused me to question whether I could complete the Camino. I have done a lot of reading about others that have completed the Camino and I am pretty much thinking I can do it...just maybe not as a "true" pilgrim would.

Most of the people I have read about seem to be on some sort of a self discovery pilgrimage. I think I am too but I just haven't formalized it enough to put into words. More to come on that later.

Did I mention the pilgrimage is about 800 kms (500 mi for those still on the other system) in length? It takes just over 4 weeks to walk it at a normal pace. I am hoping to allow about 6 weeks in total for this adventure.

Fingers crossed on getting the other 2 green lights!