In Sarria...

I didn't mention the fun part about yesterday (and as it turns out, today too). For a good portion of this part of the Camino, you walk along trails that are almost completely enclosed with mature Chestnut and Oak trees. It's beautiful walking along these types of paths but they can be a bit on the tricky side too. It's fall here in Spain and if you haven't guessed it yet, the chestnuts and acorns are ripe. What this has meant, especially yesterday and today, aside from doing the cow pattie dance, you are often being bombarded from above by either type of nut and often both at the same time. It was kind of fun (OK you have to entertain yourself on some stretches of the trail), trying to avoid getting knocked on the head.
Today's walk was quite enjoyable. The birds seemed especially loud and plentiful. I had been hearing a couple of birds for a while now and today I actually got to see them (even pics of one if them). The one I got the picture of has an ecxepionally happy sound.
My guide book said that after a steep climb out of Triacastela, you would be able you catch glimpses of the Galician rolling hills and lush valleys below as well as Sarria in the distance. That wasn't the view I saw today. The mist in the valley was as white as a cotton ball and as dense looking. It was amazing to see because you could see the tops of the mountains all around but then they just ended and there was this white blanket of mist covering the entire valley. The path I was following wound around and down the mountain. Eventually, I could catch glimpses of the land below. At one point there was a break in the mist part way down. There was a farm perched on the side of a hill and the mist was all around but there was a break in it just around the house. It was really cool looking, I hope the pictures turn out. Of course, eventually, I too was surrounded by the mist. One minute I could see the clear sky above and the next, it appeared to be a cloudy day. I didn't actually see the sun again until several hours after I arrived in Sarria and the mist had burned off.
Sarria itself is OK. It's large town that has a old section and a newer section. It appeared to me that the town planners made no effort to blend the new with the old which, at least in my opinion, is such a shame...especially to see such an unattractive contrast.
Adios for now...

Down the hill to Triacastela...

Well today was another beautiful day in Spain. With the exceptions of a few steep climbs (nothing like yesterday though), today's venture was pretty much downhill. Again today, I still prefer the down part over the up part. I know some people have knee problems but I don't and going down doesn't take my breath away. For the most part, I walked almost entirely alone. Again today, the scenery was breathtaking. One might think I would get bored with another view of a valley or of a mountainside as I walk past but that hasn't happemed yet and I don't expect it to. At times today, all I could hear was the sound of the wind whistling through the heather alongside the track, the birds singing and the sound of my own boots crunching on the gravel path. To add to the delight of another sunny day, there was a great breeze which made the walk so much more pleasant.
Coming into Triacastela, I had to share the path with a herd of cattle being moved from one pasture to another by the farmer. Of course there was the mandatory dog (a huge German shepherd who kept getting distracted by one smell or another and had to then run to catch up to the herd) helping to keep the herd on the straight and narrow. For me, aside from the dust the beasts stiired up, there was the incessant smell of the cow patties. Of course along with smell came the "cow pattie shuffle". It seems like doing this shuffle has become a constant on this journey. Don't get me wrong, it's not just cow patties, there is also sheep droppings that one needs to step around too. I wouldn't want to be accused of picking on cows. As for the one smell that will forever remind me of Spain, it will be the smell of a barnyard. It's sad but true. The smell can come at anytime, anyplace...without the warning of actually being near a barnyard. I have to say that today was particularly bad which is probably why it is so fresh in my mind. As bad as it was sometimes (very bad), it didn't deter this from being one of the best walk days I think so far.
In only 6 days, I will be walking into Santiago de Compostella. I have mixed feelings about it. I will miss the excitement of watching the different landscapes unfold in front of me each day, and sometimes at every corner. What I won't miss is not having different clothes to wear each day. There is something to be said to putting on fresh laundered clothes. Washing them out in the bathroom sink, hoping they will dry for the next day is not the same thing as clothes that gave been washed and dried in a machine.
Adios for today.

I made it to O'Cebreiro...

Well I made it to the top of the hill er mountain!
It was a delightful walk overall. The first 20kms were pretty flat and even though it was beside a road some if the time, it was pretty nice. The road used to be a busy highway but they built a new multi lane one which has taken most of the traffic. I went through some pretty quaint llittle towns all the while there were really big hills everywhere I looked. I kept trying to figure out which one I had to climb but never did untili I had to. The last 8 kms were a pretty steep climb and also pretty. We went from about 500m above sea level to almost 1400m. That may not seem like much but when you are walking it, it sure is.
The hamlet (I don't know any other way to describe it since the population is listed as 50) is a beautiful little place. The roofs on most of the houses are made of what they call broom...and it does look like the material in a straw broom. The views in every direction is truely breathtaking. Since I am now in Galicia, the shops (2) are playing bagpipe music and the symbols are all Celtic for the most part. I guess I will be in this area from now until I arrive in Santiago (7 days from today)! I hope the weather holds out. It is normally quite foggy here but I lucked in as today is sunny and warm. It isn't perfectly clear but it isn't hurting the view! The was the last major climb on my Camino. There are still some climbs but not like today.
Tomorrow, I get to start climbing down the mountain. Others prefer the climb but I prefer the decent (when I know I don't have to climb back up)!
Adios for now!

Now in Villafranca des Beirzo

First, let me apologize for my spelling. The Internet is not as readily available as I had hoped so I have to post using my phone. On top of that, the spellcheck function does not work on the phone. I will try harder to catch the typos but I hope you are getting the drift.
yesterday, I walked from Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga which was a relatively shirt walk compared to some of the others. Astorga is a beautiful small city/big town. It's amazing to walking through these towns on the weekend vs a weekday. The weekend, everyone is out socializing whereas on weekdays, you can walk through some towns and quite literally not see a soul.
I have now left the Meseta and am back in the more mountianous area. Tomorrow, the walk from here to O'Cebrerio is going to be a challenge. I haven't done this high a climb since the first day and I am having not so pretty flashbacks to that climb from St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles. It ain't going to be pretty but I am hoping I am in a bit better/different shape now. It is also about a 28km day. I am actually staying on top of the mountain tomorrow night which I am looking forward to so the next day will be the climb down which is painful for a completely different set of muscles.
Adios for now.

20 days of this journey are now complete...

Greetings from Hospital de Orbigo. And for those of you who are paniced that I am writing this entry from a hospital, relax It's just the name if the town I walked to today. By most accounts, it was a 36km hike from Leon to here today. I am saying "by most accounts" because it depends on which book you look in as to the distance. Of course I am going with the highest one. It would make it the longest walking day so far.
The actual walk today wasn't all that exciting as far as anything goes. There was a nicer route to take but it was 7kms longer so I ddecided to take the shorter (did I mention 36km?) route. The down side of it was that it was mostly on a path beside a very busy highway. I don't think I have ever seen such a busy 2 lane highway ever. Picture highway 7, between Carelton Place, during rush hour, in both directions, ALL DAY! I guess because I was so close to the road I didn't see any birds of prey today. The best I could see were a couple of small lizards scrambling into the underbrush as I walked by. In fact I haven't seem any mammals at all (except for cats and dogs). I thought I might have seen some deer or something especially since we are out walking well before the sun comes up. Maybe down the road...I still have 11 days to walk after all.
Today, for the most part, I walked ahead if the group of people I have been walking with over that past 20 days. The numbers seem to drop off more and more each day. Some people are only doing part of the Camino and have gone home already, some have limited time so have had to jump way ahead and others have taken rest days here and there. I heard today that a guy who stayed at the same B & B as I did, way back in St Jean Pied de Port has already reached Santiago de Compestela. I remember him saying at breakfast that morning that he had real limited time so he would be busing part of his Camino. As far as I know, there are only 2 others that are on this town tonight. The rest are 1 or 2 days behind me now. Perhaps we will regroup at some point.
BTW, the Stained glass in the Cathedral in Leon yesterday was stunning. Unfortunately and for no apparent reason, picture taking was not permitted. They even had 2 security guards walking the floor to control it. Any other church I have been into along the way has permitted pictures, you just couldn't use a flash.
I think that it's fir Noe. Not sure where I am going tomorrow... Still need to figure that one out.

Hola from Leon Spain...

I have to say it is pretty strange to be in a large city (by comparison to where I have been) again. It is so loud and there are so many people!
Todays walk wasn't all that pleasant. I think it is one of the worst days because most of it was spent walking beside a very busy highway. The past while has been walks beside minor roads but today it was beside a very busy road even though it was only 7am. Walking n the rain and mud was better than that traffic.
Leon seems like a nice small city. I haven't been in the Cathedral yet but I decided to stay here because I wanted to see the Cathedral at night. Apparently, the stained glass in this place is amazing. My hotel is spitting distance from the cathedral so I plan to see it after dark.
I have absolutely no idea where I am going tomorrow. Leon was an unplanned (last minute that is) stop so my roughly planned itinerary needs to be re-worked but that's for later.
Last night in Mansilla de las Musala, I had a great dinner in the hotel I was staying in. The restaurant was only open to the guests (in the 4 rooms) that were staying in the hotel. The food was good but I think the ambiance was what made the meal. One of the walls in the dining room was over 300 years old. Plus the tapestries were all hand made by the owners wife and they were beautiful. I had actually asked him where I could get one earlier in the day and that's when he explained that his wife had sewn them by hand...apparently, according to hoim, the winters are very long and she gets bored.
Adios!

Another beautiful sunny day in Spain..

Yes folks, it is another beautiful sunny day here in Spain. The walk today from El Burgo Ramero to Mansilla de las Mulas (19km) was relatively uneventful. The terrain was actually finally flat the way I had picured the Meseta to be.
For the most part, the Spanish people have been friendly and welcoming. For some reason though, the people here in Mansilla de las Mulas appear to be indifferent and just rude towards the pilgrims. At first I thought it was just me. I actually made a comment to Terri about the the lady In the grocery store seemed to completely ignore the pilgrims in the store and pretty much only talk to the local people that came in. I was just making the comment in passing and we kind of laughed it off. We decided to get a bite to eat for lunch and the 2 young ladies were downright rude to us. It was't just us. There was another pilgrim that asked the bar person a question and she was completely ignored. Both of them just continued to talk to the locals in the bar and serve them. Don't get me wrong, we did get served...eventually and without even any eye contact or anything. These were just 2 of the 4 instances that I personally experienced within a short timeframe of rude behaviour. This town for me will be most remembered for it's undisguised bad attitude towards pilgrims.
Oh well tomorrow is another day and another town so hopefully it will be back the more pleasant side of Spain and it's warm people.
Adios.
A footnote...after posting the above about the people of Mansilla de las Mulas, I came downstairs from my room and the owner of the small, beautiful hotel where I am staying approached me with a huge smile, welcomed me, gave me a map of the town and answered many if my questions. He has restored my faith in the Spanish people once again!

A great day for a walk in the country...

Today was a great day! It was a shorter walk day (only 17kms). The sun was shinning bright and there was enough of a breeze to keep it really comfortable for walking.
I walked completely on my own today which I am enjoying more and more. It is great to walk wlith someone or a small group fior a short time but I tend to get too distracted from my surroundings by the conversation. I have found that leaving before daylight with someone else or a group is much easier to navigate through an often difficult, poorly marked, and dark route out if town. There has been construction in some areas that makes it almost impossible to see the markers (if there even are any temporary ones) through these construction areas. However, once daylight comes, I have mostly preferred to walk on my own. Even duting daylight , it can still be a challenge to find the markers which is actually why I like walking on my own. It is much more of an accomplishment to have navigated yourself through the Camino marker maze.
I am in El Burgo Rancero having walked from Sahagun. Tomorrow it is on to Mansilla de las Mulas. I only have a few more days left on the Meseta so I want to enjoy the flatter terrain as long as I can.
Adios for now!

Half way point...already...

I find it very hard to believe that I have reached the halfway point of my journey both in days and distance travelled. It has gone by so fast!
The walk from Fromista to Carrion de Los Condes was short (19km) and not all that memorable. It was mostly on a path right beside the highway.
Today is a quick jump ahead day due to technical difficulties with accomodations. The next 2 days will be shorter days but then I will be back on track.
I am still working on the Spanish. I seem to understand a bit miore each day. Making a reservation is still a bit of a challenge if they don't speak even a little English but I usually get by.
Thanks for everyone's concern about my cold. It is much better than it was the first few days. As for the other aches and pains, another pilgrim told me about an ibprofen gel that you rubbed on the sore area. All I can say is WOW! I got me some of that gel and it works great! Thanks for the advice Charlie!!
And Rose, Yogi is so right, unfortunatly on the Camino, that other place could mean lotsa extra miles you have to re-walk...not a good thing if you are already doing 30km that day!
Adios for now!

Oh what a feeling...walking on the Camino....

Wasn't sure which song was more appropriate but I am "back on the road again"!
I walked from Burgos (after my rest) to Hontanas yesterday which turned out to be 32kms. The day was wet to say the least. For the first 4 hours, it was pretty much a steady downpour. The sun came out eventually. Unfortunately, it didn't affect the temperature much. The rest of the hike was spent slogging through the mud. Stayed on the hamlet of Hontanos...population of 70! It was a nice small place...not even 1 store so there were no distractions.
Today I walked from Hontanas to Fromista which totalled 36km. Needless to say it was a long day so I am celebrating with a very large beer.
The terrain has become increasingly flatter as I am now on the Mesata which is the equivelant of our prairies.
Thanks to everyone for their comments and support!
The cold has settled down quite a bit. It's in my chest a bit but nothing to stop me anymore I hope!

Trying to embrace the detours...

I'm not sure anyone will understand really why, but I had to make a very difficult decision yesterday. The day before yesterday I felt a strange tickle in the back of my throat. I ignored it hoping if I did, nothing would come of it. No such luck. By the time I went to bed I knew I was coming down with a cold. I coughed and hacked most of the night and by morning I had a decision to make. Normally the decision would be easy... it easy. I have been walking with, having meals with and getting to know a great buch of people. The thought of not continuing on with them was very unsettling. I had a foot that was bothering me, combined with the fact that it was raining, I decided I would take the bus ahead 2 days in my scedule so I could get some rest and try and get a handle on the cold. So within an hour and at a cost of 2.85euros, I took the bus to Burgos where I got some vitamin c and some rest. As I was driving on the bus, I actually saw some of the group that I travel with. That made me even sadder and feeling just a bit guilty. Anyhow some of the gang has caught up and I plan to continue my walk tomorrow.
Adios from a cool and right now rainy Spain!

Day 10 and have arrived safely in Belardo, Spain...

Finally found some internet.
I arrived safely in Belardo, Spain today. The past 2 days have been shorter walking days, yesterday was about 21km and today was 23km. Actualy today was about 25 as we got lost and had to backtrack. "The Way" wasn't marked very well at all and since we left at 630am and it was still dark, we ended up taking a wrong turn. It wasn´t as bad for us as some other of our travellers walked much further. They left 45 minutes before us and ended up at the first "cafe con leche" (coffee with steamed milk) stop about 10 minutes after us. When I say us, it was just the bunch of people that I was walking around today. There were several people leaving from Santo Domingo de la Calzada the same time as I was which is typically what happens. We follow or lead each other most of the day and then see each other most of the time in the destination. There seems to be a rather large group of us that moves to the same town each day.
The walking is becoming easier, partially becuase the landscape is become less hilly but also because I guess I am getting in better shape. I know that my lung capacity is increasing based on the long steep climb we did yesterday and I didn´t even have to stop part way up. It was a great accomplishment to say the least.
These days I am enjoying the walk more for several reasons. One being that I now call ahead and get accomodations in my next stop. Two being that I am becoming more accustomed to the routine and three I guess being that the weather has cooled off considerably. It was downright cool yesterday and today. I had to breakdown and buy a fleece jacked yesterday. I knew I would have to but I was hoping to get a few more days without having to carry the jacket.
We left wine country today and I kind of miss those vineyards. Today there were a lot of fields of sunflowers. Unfortunately, I am a couple of weeks late to get the full impact of them as they are now pretty much dried out. They would have been stunning back in full bloom.
Anyhow, gotta go do laundry...by hand...again! Not as bad as it could be since I found a laundromat yesterday and washed everything I had except what I was wearing. It was a very good thing to smell freshed laundered clothes again and to know they were really clean for a change.
Adios!

Hiked 30km today...

Well day 8 is over. I covered 30kms today walking from Logrono to Najera. The walk is becoming much easier. Today the terrain was mostly vineyards as I am in the heart of wine country. I actually tasted the grapes today and they are very sweet...well the purple ones were but the green ones were still a big sour. I am starting to get into a routine as far as how the day goes. This morning I left about 630am so it´s up at 530am and on a day like today, walk until about 2pm. After I get checked in to where I am staying, I have to wash out the clothes I have worn that day, have a very quick shower and then head to some sort of bar to wash the dust out of my throat with a large beer. Since they don´t start serving dinner here until 8-830pm, I usually have to have a snack to tide me over. I seem to be hungry all of the time. Yesterday, we actually decided to buy some stuff for lunch today and so part way through the walk, we stopped and made a really nice snack.
Anyhow, tomorrow is a shorter day...only 21km
Adios

Have arrived safely in Logrono...

Today was a very long walk but I am happy to say I made it. We walked about 27-29km (depending on which book you look in). I actually started walking this morning at 615am...well before daylight. I was determined to start early as it seems that most of the pilgrims start that early, especially if they are staying in an albergue. Started out walking with the lady from Ottawa and a guy from Brazil. We caught up with the lady from Victoria and eventually one from Ireland. This afternoon we all seemed to hopscotch back and forth and I spent most of the afternoon walking with the Ottawa lady and a guy from Germany. It is amazing seeing the different terrain unfolding ahead. Right now, I am in the heart of wine country (Rioja region). The grapes are just coming into season and but unfortunately, the wine festivals don´t start for another couple of weeks. As well, there are plenty of almond and olive groves.
Anyhow, I am off to bed as tomorrow it is a 30km day. I hope I make it but at least I have accomodations secured in the next place.
Adios!

Day 6 is in the books...

Greetings from Los Arcos, Spain!
My apologies for not keeping this more up-to-date. It has been more of a challenge to actually get internet, let alone wi-fi and then there's the challenge of the Spanish keyboard. On top of that, usually by the end of the day, I am just too tired to even make an entry. I am certainly not complaining, just explaining.
Just an brief description of day 2 and 3 and 4 and 5 and OK, 6...same as day 1. Hills! Big ones although not as big as the first day! Each day the hills seem to get smaller and for those big ones, much easier to get over. One thing I have discovered is that if you go up a hill, you always end up going down it and then up another one and the pattern continues. I was walking with a lady from Victoria yesterday and we were laughing about this. It seems strange but at by the time we had this conversation yesterday, we were both beyond exhausted both from the heat and the walk and it just struck both of us as particularly funny.
Anyhow, the walk is going well. I am meeting lots of people. It seems that the entire group of people walk the same route. We hop scotch each other during the day (they will stop and I will pass and vice versa) and end up in the same town each night. Unfortunately, some of them either have to quite early or take a bus in order to keep on track with how much of the Camino they have time for. I am very fortunate that I have the time off from life (work, home, etc.) to do the entire Camimo. I have to admit that some days, when the alarm goes off in the morning, it is all I can do to not pick up the phone and ask to stay in the same spot another night or to find out where the bus station is so I can just jump on a bus to the next town. I know I will probably have to do this at some point as I can feel the old body building up to a "rest day" but I will cross that bridge when I get to it.
Hopefully more later but right now, I have a town to discover. I may even get a chance to upload some very unedited pictures later on my Picassa site which the link is to the right of the page.
Just a reminder you can leave a comment at the bottom of each post if you want! It would be great to hear from you...
Adios!

Hola from Spain...

Reporting in from Pamplona...third day in and tired as hell...how´s that for the honest truth!!!
So, the first day, up over the Pyrenees...way up over the Pyrenees...did I mention just how high it got...1500m is a pretty good number. It was gruelling and frustrating and hot and well, pretty much just plain hell. I´m painting a grime picture but that´s how it was physically. The scenery was breath taking. The birds of prey were circling (not for me this time) and one got so close I could practically see him blink. They were massive birds. I haven´t checked the pictures yet but I hope some turned out. The mountains and the veiws were breathtaking (or was that the exertion from the climb and altitude combined?).
I ended staying in the albergue in Roncesvalles. Not a lot of sleep that night.
Anyhow, I just wanted to post to say I am alive and have made it 3 days. I will post more later but want to get dinner now.
Adios!

Ah Paris...

Arrived in Paris to torrential downpours! The flight over was great ... Probably the shortest feeling flight over I have ever had. Lucky for me, the skies have cleared and ut has turned into a sunny but kinda cold day! I went to get ny train ticket to St Jean Pied de Port tomorrow and the train I wanted was actually sold out in 1st class so they wouldn't let me use my Eurail pass. I had to buy a second class ticket for €83. Gotta roll with the punches I guess! I am supposed to be doing that 800kms afterall!
More later.. Off to find food. Getting tired as only had about 2 hrs sleep since I left Toronto!!!
BTW...if you are reading this Paula, I have been thinking of you all day. Every where I look it seems, there is a branch of BNP Paribas!

Departure day...all packed!

It's hard to believe that 6 months and 17 days ago I started this blog to try and explain to my boss that I wanted to take on this adventure and why. And now it's here...departure day. I am all packed...probably still taking too much stuff. It's amazing how many "little things" get added to the backpack at the last minute. Of course, all these little things still weigh something and it all adds up. I am hoping that somehow between Toronto and St Jean Pied de Port my backpack somehow manages to weigh less.
Thanks to everyone who followed this blog so far. I hope the next 45 days are a bit more interesting. I will update it as often as I can. As well, I will be posting a link to the right for my Picassa page that I hope to be able to upload pictures as I go.
Stay tuned as this adventure begins!

my last night before the adventure begins...

Well, this is my last night in the comfort of my own home before I jet off for parts unknown and sights unseen! Friends have asked how I am feeling but the truth is, it changes by minute. One minute it's shear dread and the next is shear excitement. I think once I actually get on the plane tomorrow, I will settle down.
I have trained as much as I was meant to have and I have researched as much as I was meant to have so I am convinced I am as prepared as I can be AND I am still sure I am doing the right thing by embarking on this adventure.
Tomorrow!